San
Francisco Sights to See - Chinatown
You
can find over six million people in the San Francisco area, and 750,000
can be found in
the Bay Area itself. Nestled within that teeming sea of individuals is
a conclave known around the world as Chinatown.
Most large U.S. cities
(and many outside) have an area called 'Chinatown'. However, even
including such diversely populated cities as New York,
the most authentic is unquestionably recognized as that special spot
in San Francisco.
It is an area near North Beach, roughly bound by Grant Avenue and Bush
Street, Broadway,
and Larkin Street,
lies a population of the decendents
of 19th century immigrants from China. They literally arrived by the
boatload, seeking freedom and fortune during the post-1849 Gold Rush
and the building of the Transcontinental
Railroads.
Home to the largest Asian population outside China, the exact
number is
virtually impossible to state. As a consequence of legislation to limit
Chinese immigration via the Chinese
Exclusion Act, and other social
factors, the residents often avoid particpating in the census. Passed
in 1882, and
extended and revised several times, the Act wasn't completely voided
until 1965.
Today the area still holds many people, shops, temples and housing that
would not look odd to a visitor from bygone days. Even so, the
fact is that
virtually everything you can see on a visit to modern Chinatown in San
Francisco was rebuilt from scratch after the great earthquake of 1906.
Finding a good meal in Chinatown is not as difficult as it may seem, as
along Grant Street there are souvenir shops and restaurants with
English translations on the menu. Those not yet fully prepared for
complete
immersion in the culture may be more comfortable here. One block west
on Stockton
the
visitor can find the real Chinatown - crowded, noisy
and bursting at the seams with genuine Chinese food and wares.
It's
delightful!
Among the many restaurants in the area there are those that serve
primarily tourists, and others where completely authentic Chinese food
can be had. New Asia
at 772 Pacific Avenue may be one of the few that has managed to do
both. You can give them a call at 415-391-6666, for more
information.
Here too can be found the heavily visited, and highly praised, Mee Mee Bakery
(at 1328
Stockton between Broadway and Vallejo). Mee Mee's is reputed to be the
originator of the fortune cookie. Looking around, one can easily
believe it. The wonderful smells and sights make it a definite front
runner for
that honor.
But despite its allure for tourists seeking interesting experiences,
Chinatown has much more than food and colorful trinkets. These
dozen square blocks house a busy hospital, highly rated Chinese and
American schools, newspaper publishers and even tennis courts.
On Waverly Street visitors can find a "joss" (good luck)
paper store or
see authentic Chinese
architecture. The street still bears
signs of its former existence as home to opium dens and brothels,
but
only architecturally. Many were housed under pagoda style roofs
of
intricate design.
Socially, among themselves, the residents mingle and trade stories
about when you could
get a haircut for 15 cents. Listen carefully and, amid the background
noise, you'll hear the
outpourings of one of the neighborhood music clubs.
Don't leave Chinatown with a visit to the Buddha's Universal Church.
One of the younger
structures (it was dedicated in 1962), the concrete and steel, marble
and wood exterior holds many unusual sights. The gold leaf
and mosaic tiles on the interior lend a cool contrast to
the teak
paneled walls. Finally, the rooftop
garden makes for a stellar
completion to a visit to San Francisco's Chinatown.
Bring your walking shoes and be prepared to take back lots of gifts and
a full stomach. Chinatown is the real deal.
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